![]() ![]() Flame the grain on the panels (flat sawn panels have a top and bottom, flames always point up).Ģ. Square panels are ugly tall and narrow are more pleasing.ġ. You can use smaller panels above them and taller panels next to them.ĥ. Don't use the heads of the doors as a horizontal line. (2) narrow panels are better than (1) large one (next to the fireplace).Ĥ. (3) vertical panels are preferable to (4) even if they are all different heights.ģ. But please don't build what you have drawn.Ģ. Then consider the joinery and the molding profiles, and the reasoning behind a bunch o' panels. You may look to the AWI quality standards to differentiate between blueprint match, sequence match, and random match of the panels, and advise your client of the whys of each. Also, if you work with antiques, you already know to go to history and find out what has gone before, why it is considered good, and how it came to be good. If you work with antiques, then you probably know about the Golden Section (or Mean, or Ratio, or Rectangle) and now is the time to drag out those old references so you can apply it to this opportunity. It is anything but a bunch o' panels on a wall. But what you have been asked to do is the current endpoint of many centuries of design based upon proportions and classic architecture. Many people would say to break it up however you want, just bill 'em and move on. You have an opportunity to add to the great deal of bad design in this profession, or you can do a little work and rise above that. We price jobs like this at about $36 per sf plus finishing. Pre-finish everything and leave only a minimum of fasteners visible, then wax over the few you can't hide. Draw it out accurately and it should install in one or two days. Level it accurately and then stack and square up as fast as possible. We build these completely loose and start installing from the baseboard up. I don't think the fireplace insert will give any more heat than is okay for the wood to tolerate. I make a relief on the edges of my panels so there is a space around them but leave the corners full size and point the corners with a block plane. The space balls can exert a lot of pressure if you don't have a dedicated space for them and the typical s&r cutter set is only 3/8 or 7/16 deep. If you use kiln dried lumber and seal the backs well, you should not have any problems with expansion and contraction. Maybe make the panels above the chair rail double height, eliminating one horizontal rail. If the homeowner likes it, then all I would say to myself is "it'll look great from my house." If it were me, I would make the panels in a vertical line. ![]() This will help to stop the checking you sometimes get (I hate central air and exceedingly hot zones). If you are going to use solid wood, which I agree with, on the back side of the panels, apply a coat of fresh hide glue with a layer of canvas and then more hide glue. There is a soffit about 20in square at the top.Ĭlick here for higher quality, full size image I would just like some thoughts on this from any point of view. I will be finishing both sides and maybe trying the space balls for expansion and contraction. I plan on using a stile and rail shaper cutter for joints. My stiles and rails will be 4" max and I am trying to keep panel size to a minimum without making the wall look too busy and overpower the mantel (the focal point). I plan on using sapele, since it has the same grain, but is better wood to finish and work with than mahogany. Customer wants solid wood with raised panels. They installed a fireplace insert also (lots of heat coming from exhaust pipe). I refinish antique furniture and build furniture, so a raised panel wall is new for me. There are two doorways and in the middle is a fireplace mantel they purchased from me. I have been asked to build a raised panel wall. ![]()
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